Rediscovering Mangalore's culinary heritage: The legacy of Balthu chutney
Balthu Chutney’s story was probably first documented in print in the Mangalore Magazine, published by St Aloysius College (established 1880). Starting in the June 1899 issue and written in first person, it described how Balthu, or Balthasar, a young Christian from near Mangalore, made his way to Chennapatnam (Madras), where he became a cook for the Jesuits.
It was an era when Hyder Ali had become the dominant power in South India. The Jesuits were taken to his camp, where they were produced before his 17-year-old son Tipu (which would date this to 1768). By chance on that day, the only food available for the sultan and his son was a basic pilau. Balthu quickly made a chutney that was so tasty that they commended him. Balthu said that he could make a vast variety of chutneys and was ready to serve the royal family. Despite being a practising Catholic, “I was there and then named royal chutney manufacturer.”
He was later able to use this privileged position to help the around 60,000 Mangalore Catholics who were taken prisoner to Seringapatam in 1784 for their alleged treachery in supporting the British.
The captivity lasted 15 years, ending with Tipu’s death in 1799.
Many captives decided to seek their fortunes in British-administered cities like Bombay, creating an influential diaspora. The legend of Balthu Chutney remained, though doubts have been raised about whether he really existed. But one thing is clear — a community ready to make a chutney maker their folk-hero obviously takes its food seriously.
Mangalor
