Moschino shreds fashion rules and Dsquared2 turns up the heat on the first day of Milan Fashion Week
Milan Fashion Week of mostly menswear previews has opened with two co-ed collections, underlining that the old calendar rules no longer apply
MILAN — Reserved for mostly menswear previews, Milan Fashion Week opened on Friday with two co-ed collections, underlining that the old calendar rules no longer apply.
The week features just 20 runway shows, which should allow time for reflection on where fashion is headed. Moschino opened with a show combining menswear for next summer and women’s 2025 resort, followed by Canadian fashion house Dsquared2 with a full menswear and womenswear collection.
Highlights from Friday's show:
In his second season as Moschino creative director, Adrian Appiolaza took the rules and literally shredded them.
“The idea of freedom of expression through dressing is what I want to bring to the future of Moschino, which is tied to the original DNA,’’ Appiolaza said backstage. “It is not about gender. It is not about nationality. It’s really about feeling comfortable, dressing the way you want and not the way you should.’’
The Argentine designer reads our collective minds as the summer season beckons in the northern hemisphere, tapping desires to break free from the office routine and reach dream destination. Along the way, daydreams take over, and familiar objects shift.
Appiolaza creates a shimmery tank out of big paperclips. A jacket is covered in textile post-its of forgotten tasks. Another becomes the office worker’s survival jacket, with slots for pens, a note pad, credit cards, ID badge, charging cables, nothing is concealed; this later becomes an adventure jacket with field guides and a magnifying glass.
Suits and trenches are deconstructed into dresses. Then they are shredded, as if to say:
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