Paris fashion week: Menswear is still in its quiet luxury era
Subscribe to enjoy similar stories. It's been a fall-winter season of clean, spare and palate-cleansing clothing with an intense focus on details, going by the menswear presentations during Paris Fashion Week. Kim Jones at Dior Men celebrated coquette-core of sorts, with models wearing semi-opaque bows as a blindfold along with borrowed-from-the-granny knitwear and cropped jumpers with bow detailing on the sleeves.
Informed by Dior’s haute couture collection of fall 1954-55, the show opened with a voluminous pair of trousers that looked like a taffeta ball skirt. On closer inspection, though, it was neither a trouser nor a skirt but a coat worn backwards. Trompe-l'œil elements evoking a suprise have often appeared in Jones' works; for instance, the beads used as shirt stripes and a shoulder sprinkling raindrop effect.
Hermès menswear, steeped in stealth chic, was another highlight of the season, with a focus on luxe outerwear crafted in the maison's signature buttery leather and chic knits. Top coats, toggle coats and car coats worn over snuggly knit turtlenecks set the mood for a cozy winter dressing, which is high on quiet luxury. Here are some of the key menswear trends that emerged at the recently concluded Paris menswear fashion week: Dior Men's opening look was a coat worn as a bottom separate with the collar creating a kind of an asymmetric cummerbund.
What's more, the tucked-in sleeves, shaped into pockets with buttons, ran down the back. Jones drew parallels between the 20th century coat and contemporary men’s tailoring. The footwear, too, came accented with satin bow tips, and blousons were crafted with glossy leather bonded with wetsuit neoprene underneath.
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