Postcard from Panna: Where debt and desperation force thousands to dig for sweat diamonds
Subscribe to enjoy similar stories. Panna, Madhya Pradesh: This place is a magnet for troubled souls," said Ram Kumar Gupta. “You wouldn’t be here if life was smooth." Gupta spoke on the condition that no photos or videos would be shot.
“We are respectable people. I don’t want anyone in my village to know that I am toiling here." The conversation took place in Krishna Kalyanpur village in Panna district, about an hour and a half away from the medieval Khajuraho temples, a Unesco World Heritage Site in Madhya Pradesh famous for its intricate sandstone carvings and explicit sexual imagery. Panna is also home to a tiger reserve, spread over 1,500 sq.
km, as wildlife enthusiasts and Instagram scrollers know. What is less known though is that Panna is the only location in India where diamonds continue to be mined. But, despite its ancient glory and mineral deposits (which also include limestone, used to produce cement), Panna is among the poorest districts in India; it belongs to the back-of-beyond Bundelkhand region, a hub of extreme poverty and distress migration straddling parts of Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh.
Diamonds are mined through both mechanized and artisanal methods. Gupta belongs to the lot of artisanal miners and operates a micro, open-cast mine. Before taking up this backbreaking work last November, he ran a transport business from the neighbouring Chhatarpur district.
Gupta’s six trucks plied across states. A string of accidents and mishaps, however, led to a bankruptcy and left him with debt of over ₹40 lakh. There was only one way out.
If Gupta could find a diamond in the shallow mines of Panna, his financial troubles would vanish overnight. In 2025, a few did land a fortune. Among them was a farmer from
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