China’s Gen Zers love knockoffs. Luxury retailers regret their big bet.
Subscribe to enjoy similar stories. The logo-obsessed Chinese consumer who powered a decade of luxury growth is disappearing. In their place: a new generation that wears their shopping savvy as a badge of honor.
Social media searches for “pingti"—Chinese for substitute or dupe—tripled between 2022 and 2025. The trend reflects more than just belt-tightening. For China’s Gen Z, finding high-quality alternatives to premium Western brands has become a point of pride, shared and celebrated across platforms like Xiaohongshu with the fervor once reserved for luxury unboxing videos.
The implications for investors are severe. China’s luxury market—which once accounted for roughly a third of global sales—shrank 18% to 20% in 2024, according to consultancy Bain & Company. That collapse has erased hundreds of billions in market value from European luxury conglomerates and American beauty giants that bet heavily on Chinese middle-class aspiration.
LVMH’s stock has fallen roughly 30% from its 2023 peak. Kering, owner of Gucci, has plunged about 60% since 2021. Burberry Group’s brand value fell by $2 billion in 2024, a 42% decline and the nearly 170-year-old British label was kicked out of the FTSE 100 index.
Estée Lauder has seen its stock crater 70% as mainland China’s luxury market shrank back down to 2020 levels. “Slowing economic growth is the broader social backdrop behind the rise of pingti as a mainstream phenomenon," said Feng Weidong, CEO of consumer-focused investment firm Tiantu Capital. The pingti movement goes deeper than typical recessionary trading down.
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