Loewe fuses high and low, tailoring and couture, to wow Paris Fashion Week
At Paris Fashion Week, Loewe presented a serene, green labyrinthine art gallery at Chateau de Vincennes, immersing guests in woodland tranquility
PARIS — A green labyrinthine art gallery surrounded Loewe’s luminaries on Friday where they breathed crisp air from enveloping woodland on Paris’ eastern edge, among the ancient stones of Chateau de Vincennes.
The gallery-decor walls were lined with the framed, wooded landscapes of artistic outsider and American painter Albert York, a clear statement of commonality from the brand’s one-time outsider fashion designer, Jonathan Anderson. The Northern Irish master can always be counted on twisting, bending, and reinventing the wheel in his own fashion. Little wonder Loewe — pronounced Lo-WEH-vay — is among the hottest tickets for Paris Fashion Week.
Inverting the notions of class and money, in a show replete with contradictions Anderson turned high to low and vice versa with aplomb. Tropes of British Isles working-class styles were inventively reimagined for the luxury runway — a humble woolen sweater vest was made of rough-textured balled reams of black wool, above baggy pants, intentionally faded evoking wornness, with dynamic, gathered swooshes in the fabric. A lowly brown rough, A-line tunic had a feel for historic garb and was elevated to high fashion by its minimalism.
Yet among all this, the most interesting part of this veritable mine of ideas was Anderson’s fusion of couture and tailoring; the highest forms of dress for women and men were intentionally muddled up, fused and confused.
Anderson transformed the traditional Etonian morning suit into a captivating hybrid dress with flappy bands dancing along the floor. Beneath a crisply tailored jacket unfolded a spectacle of
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