Milan designers have expressed their concern over the global turbulence through their collections without making overt statements
MILAN — Without making overt statements, Milan designers expressed their concern over the global turbulence through their collections.
Miuccia Prada said she wanted to project optimism.
“Because even if the times are bad, I feel that it was the right thing to do," she said backstage at the Prada show. She is not promoting escapism. “Eventually, I propose something positive, but escapism, I don’t like."
Not using the platform to comment on the state of the world would be “irresponsible,’’ said the designers behind the Simon Cracker brand, born 14 years ago to contrast the prevailing fashion system with upcycled collections.
They dedicated their collection, titled “A Matter of Principle," to “the children victims of matters of principle."
Some highlights from the third day Sunday of mostly menswear previews for Spring-Summer 2025:
The Prada menswear collection plays with the idea of imperfection. But nothing is as it seems.
Tops, jackets and hoodies seem shrunken, more than cropped. Overcoats have three-quarter sleeves. It’s a wardrobe somehow inherited, already lived-in. Creases are part of the construction, as technical as a pleat. Pointed shirt collars are held aloft by wires. Trousers feature faux belts, low and below the waistline. Belts also are featured as decoration on bags, as if to close them.
Miuccia Prada, co-creative director of the brand along with Raf Simons, said playing with the idea of the real versus the fake “is very contemporary,” calling such details “an invitation to take a closer look at the clothes.”
The neutral color palette is punctuated by feminine shades: a bright
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