The new Prada menswear collection for next fall and winter unveiled on the third day of Milan Fashion Week menswear previews has marked the return of the seasons as a point of renewal of the spirit
MILAN — Prada brought nature indoors as a backdrop for its 2024-25 fall and winter menswear collection meant to get humans outside.
Underfoot, beneath a plexiglass floor in the Prada showroom revamped for the new season, a man-made stream murmured over rocks and rustled leaves. Poised above, the fashion crowd sat on blue office chairs arranged to form a swirling runway.
So the stage was set to explore the tension between the natural and working worlds.
The new Prada collection, unveiled on the third day of Milan Fashion Week menswear previews Sunday, marked “the return of the seasons,’’ as a point of renewal of the spirit, co-creative director Miuccia Prada said backstage.
Without falling into strict categories of office wear and outdoor wear, Prada said that the collection “was meant for going outside,” and spending time there, not just as a point of transit.
That means uncinched raincoats, double-breasted or zipped, structured with epaulettes, and knit bathing caps or tight ribbed hoods to protect against the elements. It also meant athletic textured leggings paired with turtlenecks in contrasting bright shades.
Raf Simons, Prada’s co-creative director, said the collection referenced water in its many forms: the sea, rain, a stream, ice. Wellies were too obvious for Prada. Instead, there were white-and-turquoise fishermen sandals and heelless dress shoes.
A sleek leather peacoat with furry collar and a captain's cap gave a mariner's accent, one of many references in a show that veered to Wall Street, and revisited details
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