Wrinkle creams for preteens sound safety alarm

livemint.com:

This spring, amid preparation for cookie sales and planning a white-water rafting trip, the Girl Scouts of Larchmont-Mamaroneck welcomed a special guest speaker: a dermatologist. Preteens and teens across the country have ditched their crafts, videogames and toys, embracing antiaging and other beauty products, and parents are concerned. Some of the most popular products contain active ingredients such as retinol and glycolic acid, which can thin the top layer of the skin and cause peeling and irritation.

While long-term impacts are still being studied, most children have a healthy skin barrier that becomes easily disrupted when using harsh topicals, according to dermatologists. Some girls have reported getting rashes after using such creams and serums; others say they have gotten sunburned more easily. “No child was talking about alpha hydroxy acid before the pandemic," said Leah Ansell, the dermatologist invited to talk to the Girl Scouts in the New York suburb, referring to an active ingredient found in some products.

“Now, everyone is talking about specific skin-care ingredients. It’s a worrying and surprising trend." Girls in their preteens and early teens have helped fuel a renaissance in the $430 billion global beauty market. Dubbed “Sephora Kids," they follow influencers on TikTok and YouTube who post “get ready with me" videos touting antiaging creams and serums.

American teens spend an average of $339 a year on beauty products, according to Piper Sandler Companies’ semiannual “Taking Stock With Teens" survey, the highest average recorded since 2018. The survey didn’t break out the amount spent on specific types of beauty products, such as antiaging creams and serums. Retailers and product makers generally say