American Fashion in Crisis? Not at These Shows
In the 1990s, New York fashion had the Big Three: Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. Of them, only Lauren remains a fashion force. Klein’s brand now only calls to mind Jeremy Allen White in boxer briefs.
A recent reboot of the Donna Karan brand, sans Donna, drew yawns. In their heydays, these designers set the fashion agenda for the United States, and to some extent, the world. But in recent years, many have bemoaned the state of American fashion and wondered whether its fashion week should even exist.
Crisis of confidence no more! This past week, several New York designers made compelling cases for a new era in American fashion, one ruled more by a rigorous approach to separates than splashy marketing campaigns. As the luxury industry slows its roll, designers here showed the value of playing it safe, with investment-worthy coats, work-appropriate tailoring and go-everywhere dresses. Of course, in fashion, “safe" might also include sans-pants looks and four-figure shearling coats, many of which were also on display.
“I thought it was a really strong season for New York," said independent fashion critic Jeremy Lewis. After years of streetwear, irony and everyone wanting to be “extra," he said, “It’s led to more sober and grown-up clothes." Lewis, like many of the commentators and retailers I spoke to, named Proenza Schouler as a standout. He said that its “exquisite tailoring" was “relevant to a daily, city-centric wardrobe." The new energy around realistic wardrobing was visible in many collections, from downtown darlings Eckhaus Latta and Kallmeyer all the way up to megabrand Michael Kors.
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