London's culinary classics: Unravelling the unique connection between curry, crime, and the Criterion

economictimes.indiatimes.com:

The Times of India reported it “was crowded by the representatives of almost every phase of London’s life”. It was meant to be a meeting point for anyone interested in India — and Indian food. Even after curry houses started opening across Britain, serving their versions of Indian food, the India Club’s restaurant was known for more authentic desi food.

But time, and London’s soaring real estate market, have caught up with the India Club, and it is due to close today. This is sad, but no reflection on the popularity of real Indian food in the UK, as another opening shows. Masala Zone, an outpost of the UK restaurant group partly led by Indian hospitality legend Camellia Panjabi, has opened at The Criterion, one of the city’s most fabled restaurant locations.

“The neo-Byzantine, gold-tiled glories of the Criterion on Piccadilly Circus have finally got the restaurant both they and London deserve,” raved Jay Rayner, The Guardian’s restaurant critic.

The Criterion was famous for its opulent interiors and longevity — 150 years this year. In 1905, ToI reported on a relaunch: “From the ashes of the old bar has risen a magnificent restaurant, which in every respect need not fear comparison with any place of the kind in the metropolis.”

Historic India Club calls last orders in London

The Criterion is also famous in Arthur Conan Doyle’s stories for being where Dr Watson met the friend who introduced him to Sherlock Holmes, who was searching for someone to share a flat in Baker Street. In the detective stories that followed, Indian-influenced food played a key role in The Adventure of Silver Blaze where Holmes tracks down a missing racehorse. The groom guarding the horse was sedated