The mystique of saffron in a summer lunch

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₹3 lakh. It is the world’s most expensive spice, about four times costlier than the second-most expensive spice, vanilla. So, I treasure my little box and use it sparingly.

I doused a few strands in water and dunked it in the North African entrée that I have for you today (see recipe). Apart from the characteristic crimson or golden-yellow hue it lent the vegetables, it infused them with a flavour so warm and intense that even the wife, who is often suspicious of my efforts at vegetarian food, approved. That golden hue of saffron is commonly seen in biryanis, meats and pulaos, but many Indian dishes use saffron, from cold milk to biscuits.

The Spanish use it in their paella, and the Italians in soup, pasta, and risotto. Saffron is also experiencing renewed interest for its impressive medicinal properties, of which the ancients were aware. In medieval Europe, it was used as protection against the plague, but its medicinal uses there receded greatly with the advent of synthetic chemistry.

In India, saffron was held in high esteem in Ayurveda and later by the Mughals, especially the ruling classes, who were presumably the only ones who could afford it. It is known to be good for the hair, skin, digestion, and as an aphrodisiac. Medical research confirms its positive effect on the nervous and cardiovascular systems, the liver, and its antidepressant and cancer-fighting qualities.

My latest tryst with saffron came on a blazing summer’s day, when Bengaluru was experiencing record temperatures. I was struggling to impart some dash and verve to my attempt at vegetables inspired by the Maghreb, where indeed they love their saffron. Infused with saffron, poured over couscous, and finished off with lemon juice, they provided some