Prague, the Czech capital, is finding a new balance between preserving its past and embracing the future, improving many of its important historic sites while making striking additions to its skyline. A reset on tourism during the pandemic has left the city feeling more focused on local residents, with many new parks, bike trails, pedestrian bridges and other amenities showing up outside the historic center. The best new cafes, bars and restaurants, as well, are often found outside Old Town, in neighborhoods such as Dejvice, Vinohrady, Holesovice, Karlin and New Town. Stop by for a coffee, hit up one of the many great new bakeries or visit a charismatic old beer hall as you explore a city that is clearly entering its prime. ITINERARYFriday
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4 p.m. | Drink in the atmosphere Perhaps no part of Prague exemplifies the city's dizzying mix of old and new quite like the area surrounding Masaryk Railway Station, where you can gaze at the swooping curves of several neighborhood-defining commercial buildings by Zaha Hadid Architects that are currently under construction. The 19th-century train hall — Prague's second oldest still in operation, after Praha-Dejvice — has been spruced up as well, with new ticket counters and renovated retail spaces. Inside, the stylish new restaurant Masarycka welcomes travelers with mugs of Pilsner Urquell beer (65 korunas, or about $3) and great traditional meals just steps away from the platforms.5:30 p.m. | Cool off on an island The nearby Karlin district has blossomed in recent years, thanks to added residential and commercial developments along the waterfront and newly renovated, century-old buildings
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