New designer Chemena Kamali reboots Chloe with a 1970s-tinged debut at Paris Fashion Week

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Chloe has revisited its vibrant 1970s essence, infused with Karl Lagerfeld’s indelible influence, propelling the brand into a new era while honoring its pioneering ready-to-wear legacy under new designer Chemena Kamali

PARIS — Chloe revisited its vibrant 1970s essence, infused with late Karl Lagerfeld’s indelible influence, while propelling the brand into a new era for the debut show of its new designer Chemena Kamali on Thursday at Paris Fashion Week.

Despite Lagerfeld’s lasting presence in the brand aesthetic, Kamali is the latest in a swathe of female designers — including Gabriela Hearst, Clare Waight Keller and Phoebe Philo — at the helm of the storied Maison. This is apt for the house credited with inventing ready-to-wear in the 1950s post-war period that liberated women from the constraints of formality.

Here are some highlights of Thursday’s fall-winter 2024 shows:

Going back to its roots — or close enough — Kamali challenged the brand’s 70s heyday and, in the process, pulled in the great and good of the fashion world for her debut. This show was among the hottest tickets at Paris Fashion Week.

Attendees were a who’s who of fashion dynasties — harking back to the past and looking to the future. Pat Cleveland, the iconic model — and one of the first women of color anywhere to attain success on the runway, in the 1960s and 1970s — entered into a flurry of camera snaps with her model daughter, Anna Cleveland.

The fashion dynasty was followed shortly by Jerry Hall and Georgia May Jagger, the model daughter of Hall and Mick Jagger. They nestled into their cushioned seats near Mikhaela Aghion, the granddaughter of Chloe’s founder, Gaby Aghion.

Kamali, a 42-year-old designer from Düsseldorf who rose the ranks inside